006.06 Alpine Passes Route: Splügen - Safien Platz

Splügen was already settled by Walser people in the 13th century. Since the 15th century, the Splügen Pass was the most important connection between Graubünden and Italy. Some families prospered through the mule trading business and built stately houses with stone slab roofs. However, with the opening of the Gotthard railway line at the end of the 19th century, the mule trade collapsed, leading to a wave of emigration.

The hike starts steeply upwards towards Stutzalp. The Teurihorn seems to look down on you. Maybe a golden eagle circles in the air, while the marmots curiously observe the scene from the ground. After just over three hours, you reach the Safierberg at 2482 m above sea level. Zigzag downwards towards the Safiental, a side valley of the Bündner Surselva. It is worth occasionally glancing at the rocks of the Alperschällihora. Perhaps a family of ibex can be spotted; because the «Capricorn» is at home in the Beverin Nature Park. Past the water basin below the nicely located guesthouse Wanna, after more than five hours you arrive at the mountain inn Turrahus. Continuing along the Rabiusa, you reach the church in Thalkirch between a typical stegel fence (slanting fence). One last time you go uphill through the Bawald over Camaner Hut to Camanaboda. The highest year-round inhabited settlement in the Safiental is a beautiful example of the Walser settlement landscape. A visit to the local museum (advance registration required), housed in an old Walser house, is worthwhile. The last hour you first walk along the main road to the Furratobel. Immediately after the ravine, you reach the stage destination at the small hotel Nühus above Safien Platz. Beautifully located, the modernly converted old Walser house presents itself in the natural, secluded Safiental.