Normal route to the Finsteraarhorn
Informationen zur Route
Best Time of Year
Description
The ascent via the normal route from the Finsteraarhornhütte is a long, high-alpine tour that requires stamina, experience and a firm grasp of alpine techniques in every respect.
Wearing crampons and roped up, the route initially crosses the glacier before steeper firn and ice flanks have to be overcome in the upper section. The ascent over the Hugisattel (4,088 m) is not technically extreme, but can be challenging in bare ice or hard firn conditions. The ridge from the saddle to the summit requires concentrated walking in combined climbing - rock, firn and exposed passages alternate. Orientation can be tricky in poor visibility.
At the top, a panorama opens up that is unparalleled in the Alps: The surrounding four-thousand-metre peaks, the Valais, the Bernese Oberland and the Rhone Valley lie at your feet in full clarity - an overwhelming moment in good conditions. But the way back demands full concentration once again: the ridge is also exposed on the descent, the firn can become soft and the length of the tour requires a stable schedule and good physical condition.