Bellinzona

Three castles

The three castles bear witness to Bellinzona's strategic importance: the road across the Alps runs right through the centre of the town, between the rocky outcrop of the San Michele hill and the nearby valley flank. Accordingly, the Milanese war commissioner Azzo Visconti reported to his duke as early as 1475: «This place is the key and gateway to Italy» and urged him to expand the Bellinzona fortress. No sooner said than done! In record time, the Lombard master builders enlarged Castelgrande into a bulwark that could no longer be bypassed, even via paths on the mountain flank. To this end, they added the castles of Montebello and Sasso Corbaro to the Castelgrande on the mountain side, which was given an elegant touch with its swallow battlements, pointed arch windows and fireplaces in the halls. On the other side, a four metre thick fortification wall including a bridge formed the extension over the River Ticino. It was considered the most beautiful «murata» in the whole of Lombardy.

This barrier to the north, which was later partially destroyed by a catastrophic flood, was never breached. Even after the Confederates' victory at Giornico in 1478, Bellinzona remained under Milanese rule for the time being. The breakaway from the Italian masters took place peacefully, and the fortress complex finally fell into the laps of the central Swiss like ripe fruit. When the King of France occupied the Duchy of Milan, the inhabitants feared retaliatory measures by the French and looked for new allies. They found them in a returning army from central Switzerland, to whom they submitted in return for protection. The Confederates didn't take long to find an ally, chased the French occupation to the devil and arranged for the dam to be turned over to Milan in 1503, transforming Bellinzona into the southern outpost of the Confederation.

The modern Castelgrande

Anyone who sets out to visit the complex today can easily get stuck for a day between battlements and drawbridges, between towers and gates, between museum and grotto (in Castelgrande). But it's worth it: Bellinzona and its castles - "una città, tre castelli" - are world-class. To find something comparable, you would have to travel to Carcassonne in the south of France or Avila in Castile. But you wouldn't be able to enjoy such spectacular views: up the valley to snow-covered Alpine peaks, down the valley to the Magadino plain, Monte Tamaro and Lake Maggiore. Here the Alps, there the Mediterranean. In the 1980s, architect Aurelia Galfetti restored Castelgrande with careful foresight. His concept was to conserve by adding something new with modern materials. The result is a total work of art made from old walls, new granite blocks and concrete that is worthy of the place. After all, the San Michele hill can look back on 6000 years of settlement, during which time it has experienced a great deal. However, whereas in the Neolithic period people had to clamber up the rock, today a walkway leads from the Piazza del Sole to the inside of the rock, from where a lift takes visitors to the inner courtyard of the castle in just a few seconds. UNESCO is also impressed by this symphony of granite and concrete: the fortifications have been a World Heritage Site since 2000.

A feeling of living like in Lombardy

The old town of Bellinzona is considered one of the most unspoilt in the whole of Ticino. The city presents itself in an unagitated way, which invites you to discover the secrets, corners and squares of this beautiful city. It's a kind of farmers' market that takes place every Saturday morning in the centre of Bellinzona. Young and old, locals and tourists alike buy sun-ripened fruit from Ticino, sample cheese specialities from the valleys and taste sausages made according to old recipes. Or buy a wide variety of items for home use. The polenta stand is also an attraction. And of course there are many places in the old town where you can indulge in the dolce vita. Depending on the time of day, you can enjoy a coffee or a glass of local wine. Those interested in culture and history will get their money's worth anyway. Not only in the Castelli.

With the Treno Gottardo, you can enjoy a direct connection to Bellinzona. Hop on and visit the Italian capital of Switzerland.

Journey: with the Treno Gottardo to Bellinzona